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Arctic “Floe Edge” Expedition 2006

JUNE 21st, 2006

 

Posted By Steve Lafontaine - Webmaster (9:45 am)
Geoff just called to from the Floe Edge to check to see if we have received the latest journals and pictures.  It seems they encountered a transmission problem last night but things seem to be back to normal this morning.

Geoff went on to say that last night they group encountered some “fairly stormy conditions” and it was necessary to do some “extra securing of the tents.”  This morning they awoke to blue skies and after breakfast the students are participating in a presentation by Diz on how to make a difference in climate-change related issues both at large and in their daily lives.

The team has a busy day of discovery and education planned with hopes that they will perhaps spot a polar bear and some norwall whales.

Finally, Geoff reports that everyone is happy and health and that later today two of the students from Ottawa will be interviewed from the Floe Edge by CBC radio.

Expedition Leader Report

Hello Everyone!

A flock of Thick-billed MurresIt was another wondrous day on the ice as wildlife sightings continue to accompany our every excursion.  The day began with a post breakfast discussion on international youth climate change related initiatives— from the UN Conference of the Parties (COP11) in Montreal in November 2005 to the World Urban Forum currently happening in Vancouver to the upcoming International Polar Year 2007-2008—we discussed opportunities for young people to get involved in effecting positive societal change.

By 10am it was off to Cape Graham Moore and a truly awe evoking experience as 1000’s of kittiwakes were nesting along the 1500+ ft cliffs.  Thick Billed Murres and Glaucous Gulls were also spotted along with a curious fox darting through a colourfully striated metamorphic rock cave.   With ‘in the field’ lectures on the birds by Dave and geology 101 taught by Ingrid amidst the cavernous walls, planet Earth once again provided a spectacular classroom for meaningful learning for us all.   Santa Fe soup and lentil burgers delighted and warmed our bellies before we headed on excursion number two to the floe edge!!

It seems the kharmic forces were aligned once again for SOI as a narwhal was waiting for us upon arrival.  For the next 5 hours the dynamic floe edge ecosystem kept us all engrossed with our surroundings.   3 narwhals swam along the edge keeping us with a perpetual eye on the water as our other eye was fixated on two polar bears napping in different locales amidst pressure ridges in the ice a short distance away.  What a sight we were as 22 people, silent in awe, were either sitting on top of komatiks with binoculars or scopes on the bears while others were sitting within metres of the floe edge listening to the rhythmical expulsions of the narwhals.  Toss in the playful curiosity of several bearded, hooded and ringed seals and perpetual flock fly-bys of 100’s of Thick Billed Murres and you quickly have the very best of Mother Nature before you…. What an afternoon!  In fact it wasn’t until 7:30pm when we all finally managed to rally ourselves away from the floe edge and make the journey home to base camp. 

As the 17 tents dwarfed beneath the cliffs on Bylot Island came into sight myself, Deeva, Rosie, Drew and Maggie (sharing a komatik for the day) commented on how much this place now feels like home—our respective lives down south seem like lives lived long ago and the luxuries that are so ingrained in our urban lives seem so irrelevant as smiles are large, needs are met and spirits are filled—a ‘less is more’ ethos rang out in many conversations today.

With the midnight sun high above as we crawl into our tents tonight it was great to hear all the laughter and comraderie being exchanged—a warm affirmation that a strong community has been formed.   With dreams of a bowhead whale encounter it is hard to believe tomorrow will be our second last full day on the ice.   What a week it has been!

Happy Summer Solstice!

Diz Glithero

Student Journals
Today is Wednesday which means that my friends are writing their exams.  He He He He. Group shot at Bird Cliffs I just finished my supper of caribou, potatoes and warm apple sauce and I’m feeling pretty good.  Now a bunch of us are sitting in the dinning tent telling blond jokes while Dave is trying to quiz us on arctic animals.

Our excursion of the day was to go to a bird cliff.  There were thousands of tiratiras (Kittiwakes) and akpas (Murres) all squawking and causing a raucous.  Maggie was so afraid of getting plopped on that she was hiding in the komatik.  So we pulled her out.  Unfortunately my feet were so cold I couldn’t really enjoy it.  The others were having fun though and a few of them even saw a fox.  The geologists, however, were far more fascinated by the rocks that form the bird caverns.

In the afternoon we went to the floe edge and the minute we got there we saw a narwhal in the water.  I was SO excited!  Three weeks ago I thought a narwhal was a mythical beast and now I am seeing it swim right in front of me.  It was amazing.

While we were standing on the floe edge, people were starting to realize that in two days we’re heading home.  So that got me thinking and I can’t imagine home.  It’s not that I forget what it looks like or the faces of my friends but just our lifestyles.  I can fathom wearing shorts, or opening a door.  It’s the strangest thing.

The best part of today though was not coming home until eight o’clock at night because we were so busy playing voyageur and Inuit games that we lost track of time (easy to do when the sun never sets).  We were having so much fun that we only came home because we had to eat before midnight.  We just made it, its 11:30.

Well, have a lovely longest day of the year!

Gillian Mucklow

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Staring off onto the distanceIt was the 4th morning waking up to the sound of clashing metal pots. Although it has been four days since I arrived at our camp site, I still find the sight astonishing every time I slowly clamber out of my warm sleeping bag and unzip the door of my tent. The beautiful world of white that comes into sight as the tent flap unfurls is so clean and pure that I can hardly believe that it’s a part of our planet. The city that I call “home” (Shanghai) is just so different from the place I am in now.

The second and most important thing that constantly catches me by surprise is the weather. I always underestimate how cold the temperature up here can be and am always reluctant to part from the warmth of my tent each morning. The statement “it’s so cold” is definitely one of the most common things we hear coming from the mouths of each student.

Today, unlike yesterday, was full of unexpected surprises. Though we had heard that we were heading for the bird cliffs yesterday, all (or nearly all) of us never expected the spectacular sight that we were about to see. As we approached the cliffs, I saw hundreds and thousands of tiny white specks on the rocks, but as our komatik got closer and upon closer inspection I came to realize that those miniscule dots were actually birds. Once we arrived and hopped off of our comfy komatiks, everyone took out their cameras and prepared to capture this spectacular sight onto disk. Flocks of birds took off upon our arrival and returned once they decided that we were seemingly harmless. The lifting off of hundreds of birds from the ground all at the same time will be a scene that I shall keep in my mind.  Other than seeing tons of kitiwakes and murres (flying birds that resemble penguins) we also managed to spot an Arctic fox dashing into a cave and listened to a short lecture on geology from Ingrid. Lunch at the bird cliffs was also great! Many thanks to Martin and Lee for cooking up such a great lunch! Extra thanks to Martin for teaching us how to do the Australian Foot Warming Dance, which really did help warm our cold feet.

After finishing a delicious lunch we left the bird cliffs and headed towards the floe edge for the second time. On our way we spotted dozens of seals hanging out on the ice and saw them slide quickly into the water when they heard the loud humming sound of the skidoo. The ride was also one of the bumpiest rides I have experienced so far on our trip. Our komatik twisted, turned, and hopped over the ice, making the trip rather “exciting”. If it weren’t for the foam padding I guarantee that I would have had a bruised backside by now.

When we arrived at the floe edge we immediately heard the shouts of “whale” from our Maggie at the Floe EdgeInuit guides and stumbled out of the komatiks towards the edge of the ice. Many of us were warned to stay quiet and we slowed our approach towards the water in attempt to muffle the sound of our footsteps. The whale we saw was our first narwhal! Although we couldn’t see its tusk we managed to see its side and hear its soft breathing. After the whale left our range of sight we prepared to busy ourselves with other activities, since we weren’t expecting anything else incredibly interesting. Little did we know then what we were about to see.  By the end of the trip we had managed to see at least three narwhals, a couple of seals (one was really funny. It kept popping out of the water in front of us), and two polar bears!!! During this day (the longest day of the year, the summer solstice), we also played frisbee, and a series of games taught by James and Martin. By the time we left the floe edge it was already past 7 PM and I had to do the dishes once we got back to camp before the chefs could start cooking. Although late, the dinner was great (like every other meal). We had caribou meat and then cinnamon bread with hot apple sauce and whipped cream for desert!  Now it’s 11:50 PM and I’m still writing my journal. There’s only one more full day on the ice before we return to Pond Inlet then to our “busy” lives back at home. I’m definitely going to miss this place (not its weather though).

Simone Chen

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Rosie and Gillian (the winners of the Canadian Geographic Polar Bound contest) with Abraham, one of our guides..Time is just flying by; I can’t believe tomorrow is our last full day here on the ice. I will enjoy each moment to its fullest!

Today was another inspiring and action-packed day. We began with a trip to a bird colony on the Cape Graham Moore cliffs. What an amazing scene it was there- a prime example of what I’d call ‘organized chaos.’ There were thousands of birds (mostly Kittiwake gulls) nesting in every possible niche and on every ledge. Huge flocks of gulls would come swooping off of the cliffs at any loud noise; males were busy delivering nesting materials to eagerly-waiting mates; birds were squabbling and stealing from each others’ nests... each bird was so absorbed in its personal quests, and yet what struck me the most was how free they all were. With all the comings and goings, it was quite a racket.

After a delicious lunch, we headed out to the floe edge, and again, an amazing array of Arctic animals came by to pay us a visit. First were the narwhals, gracefully slipping through the water, surfacing to breathe. What a neat sound that is. After they had passed, I picked up my binoculars, and had a huge adrenalin rush when I realized the tiny black dot on the horizon was in fact a polar bear. It stayed off in the distance, which was probably a good thing! There was another polar bear sleeping a ways off that we watched through the spotting scope.  Seals, Murres, icebergs, and beautiful scenery, kept me occupied for the rest of the time out at the floe edge. It is interesting to contemplate how much life thrives under the calm gray surface of the Arctic Ocean.

I feel very fortunate that we had the chance last night to speak with Panuilie, the eldest Inuit guide on this trip. We would ask him questions in English, and James, another guide, would translate into Inuktitut. I love listening to them speak in Inuktitut, but I don’t think there’s much hope for my learning it any time soon!  Listening to Panuilie talk about climate change was the first time I had seen the personal side of global warming. We hear a lot about the scientific side of the issue, but not a lot about how the Inuit will be impacted. And, indeed, the threats that climate change pose to their cultural way of life are huge. Panuilie felt that the most important message we students should take home from the Arctic is that climate change is a real thing.

The past few days have really made me begin to think about where I fit into this whole Arctic picture. I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to experience this place first-hand. With a personal connection to the land comes the motivation and inspiration to help contribute to protecting it. There are so many issues and areas to be explored; lots of food for thought.

Well it’s going on for 10:30 and dinner dishes still are waiting. It’s quite a job washing up for 25-ish people! Apart from cold feet, I’m doing great.

Rosie

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