Aug 04 - York Sound and the Grinnell Glacier - Our final full day on board the Explorer will be spent exploring the Meta Incognita Peninsula.
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Posted Thursday 6:15 pm ET

New Journals for yesterday have just arrived (see Wed, Aug 3)

Here are some photos to give you a clue about the incredible day the SOI expeditioners had ...

Earlier entries not previously posted:

Aug. 1: Hello everyone one back home, and I'm sorry I wasn't able to write earlier we have been very busy. Geoff's idea is to keep everyone on only 7 to 8 hrs of sleep instead of the normal 12 hrs of teenager sleep. We have almost no time to ourselves from zodiac landings to lectures and the every good meals provided by our chef. I'm glad we made it though the Denmark Strait which was rough for many people as we ran into many 'good' size swells.

Today we awoke to some swells off the south coast of Greenland, and docked for the morning in Nanortalik which is one of the largest towns in southern Greenland. After our breakfast buffet we all broke into groups to explore the town. We explored the older part of town and saw how the community started. Everyone in town speaks Greenlandic but there are some who know English. It was surprising to see that even in Summer there were icebergs still floating in the harbor. The town choir welcomed us to the church, and we became guest to a private showing of their talents. The town didn't have much but it was nice to see on our adventure.

It's been almost nothing but fog and rain the whole time in Greenland. By late afternoon we reached our next spot and everyone left to reach the Hot Springs. After a short hike we were greeted with a site of 4 hot springs, and before I and few went in we made a mad dash to reach the ocean water which was cold and long run. The rocks were not a welcoming site but nonetheless we scrambled down. Kelan and I both counted to 3 before throwing our selves into the freezing water with icebergs just 100 yards off. The water was so cold all feeling was almost gone, but the air seemed very warm. Then we ran up the bank into the nearest hot spring which was very welcoming. Everyone just floated around for about an hour and a half
before we headed back to the ship for dinner.

Don't worry I'm having fun on the ship even if I miss the unmoving island in which I live on. I miss everyone back at Akwesasne, and salt and vinegar chips!

August 2nd 2005 Today was a very early day and the ship was split into two groups, one group which planned to hike to the Arctic Circle and the other group was headed to a hike until lunch and head back to the ship. In the morning the first group headed out at about 7:30a.m.and my group headed out later at low tide. We had a fair hike at first at an angle, and then it leveled out to flat ground. There was a lot of moss covering the steep areas but the rest was nothing but sand and rock. There were many run off streams from the mountain sides and some were fairly large in which you needed to jump. After a walk along the beach side our group made the mistake of going up the mountain side to cross a large stream. I assisted Geoff on picking a crossing point and helping people across the rushing water. This was my favorite hike on the trip since there were many streams to listen to and watch the rushing water over the rocks. Our group was able to hike up to one of the best waterfalls in the area. The water came down to several pools and then fell down to the next level. I was able to catch some water from one of the waterfalls which made an arc into the air. On the way back the tide came in so quick we almost had jump into the zodiac before we had to start swimming. The funniest part was when Steve emptied his boot and half of it was full of water and there was even a little shrimp that was in there.

After our hot lunch on the ship we heard the first group made it to the arctic circle within 3 hours after departure. Then our group headed out with our wet gear to the beach for workshops. I chose the stream group to figure out the force of the stream and other things about the stream. The mosquitoes were almost as big as the ones down Syne but are just as evil. The area is almost surreal as this is a steep valley with almost only water in the center and the clouds enclose the valley. There were only a few moments when the clouds would shift and let you see the peaks. This day will always be remembered.

I can't wait for my hash and fry bread when I get to Ottawa at 6:30 pm August 5th. Can't wait to get home!

August 3rd Morning was early as usual, and breakfast was buffet style. In morning our ship has reached the Northern edge of the Cumberland Sound. Our group was one of the first to be able to get into the zodiacs and venture around the coast line. We headed straight to an area where Polar Bears were sighted, and we found a mother bear with two cubs climbing along a mountain side. The mother bear quickly moved her family up the mountain side as our zodiacs came into view. After that we spotted another closer bear on the other mountain side and he gave a brisk climb away from us. As we traveled along after the bears we went to explore the many inlets and when we approached the last one, a female polar bear was sleeping and was disturbed by us but she just stayed in her place. She just watched us and then when to watching the water looking for any fish. At one point she scratched her nose and that was the highlight of that encounter. We had to go back to the ship for the other group to visit the female polar bear and we were glad to
finally get warm.

After lunch on the ship and lecture for our newest and last member of the trip we landed on another group of islands. As soon as we were at the next group of islands we discovered about 6 polar bears within the area. Right away the zodiacs were lowered into the water and everyone jumped into the zodiacs to follow the bears. Even on the ship many people saw at lease two polar bears climbing from the water onto the side of the island. Then when my group was within the water we saw bears all over the place from a tall cliff side to a bear just sitting and watching us float by them. One very large bear looked at us and then came out of the shadows and was illuminated by the back side from the sun.

In the end today has been almost nothing but polar bears from early this morning to sunset.

Phillip "Kaneratiio" White-Cree

Akwesasne, Canada

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August 3, 2005

The plot just keeps building. Today we added polar bears and Sheila Watt Cloutier to our list of experiences. It truly was a "moment "as four Zodiacs of us gazed in wonder at a polar stretching, yawning and curling up on the rock. This afternoon Sheila spoke passionately and clearly about her own Inuit hunting culture and her work on many fronts exercising the "politics of influence." In closing, Sheila reminded us that "the planet and its people are one." I think that the truth of this statement is evidenced in the very expedition itself as a varied group-intergenerational, interdisciplinary explore and learn together.

Norah McMahon-Ottawa

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August 4

Today is the last full day on the ship. Tonight we are getting a super fancy farewell dinner as we celebrate (more or less) the end of our expedition. We spent this morning searching for walruses. We saw 11 polar bears yesterday so we thought it best to move on. We reached Monumental Island, an island named in honor of the Franklin expeditions. It was to be used as a point for ships to recalibrate all their location instruments. It is supposedly a wonderful walrus lookout. In the morning we had a recap of yesterday and a briefing of today. At the end of the recap, our bird specialist just looked outside and saw a horde of walruses swimming alongside the ship. Everyone rushed outside and found another pack of walruses. Perfect timing. We loaded
up the zodiacs and went in search of these massive creatures of the ocean. They travel in huge herds of about 15 or 20. In our cruise we saw about 2 or 3 large groups of them swimming around. Then we kind of got distracted by 4 polar bears roaming around on the island. At least it brings the polar bear count to 15 in two days. The other zodiacs started leaving for the ship, but our driver let us stay. It was good that we stayed because we caught sight of 3 walruses (mom, dad, and child) sitting together on this shallow rock at the shore. We inched towards it slowly and our driver then turned the motor off as we drifted closer. He then went to the bow (you bow forward) of the boat and started taking pictures. The motor handle kept hitting my leg as we reached a distance of 5 feet away from the walruses. At this point the baby walrus opened its mouth and started growling at us as they all shuffled (waddled) back farther into their corner showing their rear ends at us. All of them huddled together as one big protective unit. We took this as a sign to leave because one of our Inuit students told us that when a walrus shows its rear end, it means that the walrus is dangerous and ready to attack. Once we returned to the ship we had a lunch and after that I joined into a meeting with the student who created YC3 to help her create a youth statement to present at COP 11. There were only 15 students there and only 3 guys (including me). Anyway, at the meeting we set a roadmap for what we want in the statement and we will be continuing this work after the expedition is over. Our goal, I believe, is to get a greater role for youth in the decision making process at COP 11. Thankfully we have a lot of knowledgeable staff (including Justin Trudeau) who are helping us with this endeavor. After the meeting, we had our last lecture of the trip. This one was on pollutants in general. It was an okay lecture. A group picture was taken on the bow of the ship at the end and we commenced to pack our luggage. Tomorrow morning we leave the ship and hang out in Iqaluit for a while. In the afternoon, we fly out to Ottawa and continue on our way home.

Ankur Gupta

San Jose, California

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Wow! I don't even know where to start to be totally honest. We have had the privilege to meet so many people- not only on the ship but also in the villages and communities we were able to visit, all with unique and memorable stories to tell. I have had the opportunity to experience so much in the past two weeks, more than I would have ever been able to do in any normal two weeks of my life. Everything from running down the face of an active volcano, climbing above the clouds to the peak of a glacier, looking into the eyes of the largest animal on earth, relaxing in the blue lagoon, swimming in the frigid waters of the arctic, and coming up close and personal with a hungry polar bear. But most of all, I was able to watch and learn from some of the most unique, intriguing, unbelievable people I will ever meet. Although it did start off with me having to bum clothes, jackets and even shampoo off people- while the airlines so eagerly looked for my bag (which didn't arrive until the last day in Iceland I might add) it was all in all an unforgettable experience from the moment we landed in Ottawa until the second everyone steps on the plane for their final departure back home. I had an unforgettable, eye opening experience which will never be forgotten. And remember, if you have the passion and drive- you can accomplish anything you put your mind too!

Ashley Tufts

Iqaluit, Nunavut

Former SOI Antarctica expeditioner
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August 4, 2005

Today I woke up to a breakfast of 7 muffins, a recap from last night, and walruses off the Starbard Bow! I had breakfast with Kelsie *Whispers* and talked with her and John about what kind of talk and things I can give my community to help them with Climate Change Awareness. I now plan to do all in my power, starting with a letter, to get Arnold Schwarzenegger to COP 11 in Montreal this November. He is our governor, and I know that he's already a supporter of the efforts to help combat Climate Change and Greenhouse Gases. We went out in the Zodiacs to go find some more Walruses, and I swear, I must have seen over 100 of them! So many packs, and they swim on top of each other. There were some babies in with them too! It was such a phenomenal sight, I was just awestruck! I got some great shots of them too. We were out for 2 hours, just watching and sitting in amazement at the wondrous beauty that was before us. Anywho, the Arctic Swim Team struck again, and I was, of course, documenting the whole thing on my camera. Justin Trudeau took the liberty of asking me why I wasn't going, and I quite honestly told him that I wanted to preserve my perfectly straight hair. Sophie said that it was degrading to women... jokingly of course, but she said that I had to go now. I told them, with the intent that I wouldn't actually have to go, that if they would keep everything waiting for me, I would go. Well, they said that I had to go change, because they would wait hours for that, and I went to change. I must admit, I loved it! I would probably never do it again, but it was invigorating to hit the waters of the Arctic Ocean and feel all of your muscles freeze up. To reach for the hands of the crew to help you up, and to know that you were a part of something so personal with the others who also challenged themselves, was very fulfilling. Of course, I would never actually tell Justin that, but I will thank him for making me go. So, out of consequence, and pride, I am now a member of the Arctic Swim Team! I was late for lunch, so much so that I had to wait for a half an hour for them to bring more pasta for me! By the time the got it to me, I had to go to my meeting for YC3, or Youth Climate Change Conference, so I brought my food with me to the library or the 'set' to discuss what we will be presenting to the UN at COP 11 this November. I
really want to go to COP 11. I'll have to find out the logistics, because I think that in order to be an observer I have to go through some channels, but I am so incredibly passionate about this issue that I really want to be
aware of what's going on. I want to be a part of the solution. I want to be the Change that makes these horrible things that the POPs are doing to the Inuit people stop. "When Inuit mothers have to think twice about nursing their babies because of pollutants from afar..." Sheila really woke me up. I want to help. Now I just have to be the means to the difference. I hope that this fire grows and never dies. Passion is a terrible thing to waste. I'm sad to go, but also incredibly fulfilled with knowledge and the means to actually do something instead of whining about it. I want to personally thank the educational team from the depths of my heart and mind for the enlightenment and the incredible journey they have started for me. It will be long, but now I know that I will always have continuous support from everyone here.

Mary Ann Thornton

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Ahoy this last day on the MS Explorer!!!! It has been an exciting morning so far. Being such an early riser paid off this morning, as I was on deck to see another 4 polar bears (a mother and two cubs and the fourth swimming from one island to another), and just to the left of the swimming bear was a Sei whale surfacing....so was able to watch both of them. Seals were also present in the water. We continued on to Monument Island where we followed walruses to land...then the zodiacs were launched and off we went. We saw another 8 polar bear on this island (so I saw a total so far on this trip of 22 polar bears). We saw the walruses we were in search of...numerous in the sea and against the island rocks. And all of this under a bright sunlight day...it couldn't be better. After all of the zodiacs were in, we had a final Arctic Swim Team event...of which I became a member today (Never will I complain of a cold shower again after this!!!!) Sean again took the plunge---he went into the Arctic waters at least half a dozen times or more since we started. So we will set off again heading for our final landing by early morning...so hope all is well "down south of us". Talk to you soon.

Cheryl Horton

Chaperone Brenham, Texas

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Everything has an end, also this SOI trip. It has been an amazing experience, and I know I repeat myself when I say that I cannot put it into words what we have seen. Tonight was a special night on this trip, staff and student became one and we had a nice dinner together with a nice get together with everyone. I was in the group which sang in the finals of Arctic Idols and we won (of course). Today was polar bears and walruses day, it was an unbelievable dream to see a polar bear swim and breathe only some few meters away from me. Dear Geoff and Diz, thanks for a great trip! I'll see you again at some other point.

Jeg kommer hjem snart, selv om jeg faktisk mest har lyst til at se flere isbjoerne og hvaler.

Mads Qvist Frederiksen, Denmark

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WOW WHAT A JOURNEY!

Thanks to everyone who helped Rebecca and I get to this point!

Jessica Pietrusiak and Rebecca Cameron

Today is the last full day on our ship. As much as I want to go home I don't want to leave this ship. As much as I miss my friends from home, I don't want to leave my friends on this ship. As much as I love this expedition I never want to end but somehow want to end. I miss everyone at home very much but I don't want to leave the friends I made here, I would like to get to know them a bit more. In conclusion I am in shock that this trip is almost over, and want to go home but I don't know.

Our last zodiac ride was today unless there is another one in our near future. The zodiac will stay in my heart forever, making sketches in my mind that I don't think I can draw this image and make people think the way I did when I saw my story behind my picture. The zodiacs saw walruses and polar bears. Pictures are amazing and are worth a thousands words, in this case my disposable camera ran out of pictures. Now I can tell the story of the polar bears and walruses.

This stories will forever be on my mind, instead of telling stories of sitting on a couch and watching television I can tell them I saw the Arctic up close and personal, through its ups and downs on this world.
My story is the beautiful landscapes of three countries I thought I never see before. Wonderful animals from Arctic's flying birds to one of the biggest animals of the world and the kings and queens on the arctic; polar
bears. I also have stories told to the group, like Frog Child and Snake Boy and how Raven got his color. The most amazing story of this trip is what happened every day on this trip. The fact that most people never see this part of the world and seeing what we did is so special to many people on this trip. Another amazing story is that at the end of this trip the actions that we take is going to make a impact on our community, our country or our world, whatever we choose what ever we choose is going to be our story. Students on Ice shows so many opportunities for my generation to change.

Victoria Ransom

Akwesasne ON, Canada

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