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STUDENTS ON ICE | Natural Heritage Building 1740 chemin Pink, Gatineau, QC CANADA  J9J 3N7 | 866-336-6423

DAILY EXPEDITION UPDATES

Thursday, December 31, 2009: Drake Passage

Photo by Lee Narraway

Evening Update:

Seas remain calm and the team had a fabulous night, welcoming 2010 into the world with dancing on the top deck of the ship, skits and songs, and great food and laughter throughout the evening!

Below, we have a mighty list of Journal updates for you... Enjoy!




I hope my family and friends are having a good Christmas and New Year time and I hope that they have been following this expedition through the SOI website. So, mom, you don't need to be worried because I'm having an excellent time here, probably one of my best times in all my life. I am surrounded by nature and good people with excellent Karma.

The last days have been amazing with unique landscapes, just like Laguna Esmeralda in Tierra del Fuego or the cities of Santiago (Chile) and Ushuaia (Argentina). The students from all around the world are so awesome and the staff is so special, with many life histories and life experiences. The hikes were amazing and funny too, not only because the students and staff got stuck in the mud but also because the connection between the staff and the students and also the few brave students that went into the Laguna Esmeralda waters.

I'm loving the workshops and the presentations because some of them talked about whales (very common in the Azores) and the Portuguese and Spanish world conqueror in the navigation epoch, something that we learn in my Portuguese school and it's part of my history.

Today is the last day of the year and we are passing through the Drake Passage in the M/V Ushuaia heading to Antarctica. The sea is a little shaky but in Azores this kind of sea is very normal, so Viviana and I have to show our real sailor's spirit and experience. I hope not to get sea sick but when the sea becomes more rough I'll probably feel some because I'm not using or taking any medication against it. Some people already got sea sick and throwing up too, so...

My luggage was lost in Madrid (the last time I heard about it, it was there) and I had to buy new clothes in Ushuaia. This situation is not bad because it makes this experience even more special. Some years later I will think about this expedition and I'll remember this "no luggage" experience and I'll smile!

I hope the next days are still amazing or even more amazing and special, with connection to the people and nature.

A HAPPY NEW YEAR to ALL THE WORLD but specially to PORTUGAL and AZORES!!!

Feliz Ano Novo e que o futuro seja ainda mais risonho do que tem sido.

- Pedro Meneses, Participant

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We set sail for Antarctica on the M/V Ushuaia today! It feels as if this day has been around the corner since last winter, alas, here we are now. The excitement for the journey is oh so present. A slideshow closing last night's briefings shocked a group of 60 plus teenagers into utter silence, which, as I've learned over the past few days, is no small feat. The images sent me reeling too. It was as if I hadn't quite wrapped my head around where I am (at the bottom of the planet) and what I can expect to do over the next few weeks. It’s so hard to remember though, especially through the action of the last few days.

What I had expected to be 'a little bit of down time' in Ushuaia have been some of the most exciting days I've had in a long while, perhaps the busiest too. We've gone on two awe inspiring hikes, one to the glacier and mountains right out the rear window of our hotel, and another through the muck and mosses of the bogs and forests of Tierra del Fuego. On the latter we had an opportunity to go for a "polar bear swim" in a secluded glacial lake, an opportunity taken by at least ten students including myself. It was certainly a unique experience, jumping into such a pure, emerald pool surrounded by mountain peaks, though the winds certainly made me wonder why exactly I had decided to do so. This frustration was only amplified in light of the fact that my roommates and I had decided to hike the way in shorts.

In addition to the hikes we've also had the tremendous opportunity to hear lectures and participate in seminars from an incredible team of experts. Topics have included Antarctic wildlife, experiential education, thinking of the Earth as our home, and, a personal favorite, a journal writing clinic. We've been continually asked to question all of the staff about anything we want between these lectures as well. So far I've had amazing conversation about Parks Canada, fighting forest fires, life changing canoe trips, Australian Aborigines, the ups and downs of the professorial career path, Antarctica's effect on one's love life, and more. This wealth of knowledge and the friendliness of those around me with is simply astounding. It’s not just staff either; this liveliness can be seen in each and every student, enhancing every dinner conversation, plane ride, and spare moment so far.

- Patrick Gilfeather, Participant

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I arrived at an airport in Ushuaia on Dec. 27. I spent four days in Ushuaia, and on the first day we hiked up a mountain! To me the hike was more than a bit strenuous, but the view from the top of the mountain was worth the effort. Glacier remains cut in and out of the forest on top of the mountain. I managed to start a snow ball fight on a very large mound of snow. Before we had to leave I got to penguin slide down a glacier!

- Victor Davila, Participant

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First off I would like to apologize because I have not blogged yet, it has been a busy, busy past few days. Our time in Ushuaia was fantastic, my room looked right out over the bay and I could admire beautiful city lights by night. From above, the city looks so peaceful and still. The boats sat in beautiful formation that looked much like a painting. City lights consisted of beautiful blues, yellows, and the occasional splash of red. While the city may have been bustling beneath, from above, it looked tranquil. The sight was simply fantastic.

We went on two hikes that were breath taking, literally and figuratively. I remain to be humbled by the majestic stance of the mountains. No matter how many times I lay eyes on them. They still continue to remind me of how powerless humankind still can be. During the hike in the Tierra del Fuego mountains, the glacier streams are what captured my interest. They are so crisp, cool, and beautiful sounding. The Emerald Lagoon, our destination, was a beautiful teal and kelly green mix. Some of my fellow explorers took a brave leap into the frigid waters of the lagoon. Their faces showed pain but none regretted the experience.

Our last day in Ushuaia was spent in the town and I had some of the proudest moments of my life. I spoke Spanish to the workers, AND they were coherent sentences. I helped my friend purchase some chocolate; I felt so proud and now I cannot wait to speak more. Many students on the ship are impressively bi-lingual. Some are native, while some learned in school similar to me.

The latter half of the day was aboard our ship, the mighty Ushuaia! The excitement could be felt all around. Those of us who were supposed to go last year were awe struck in a non-believing state. After a few years of anticipation we finally took our first steps toward Antarctica. The ride before we went to bed was blessed with calm seas. Many students were feeling very confident of their ability to cope with sea life. Through much exploration my roommate and I came to the conclusion that our room was the smallest aboard. The confined space did not interrupt my peaceful sleeping however. The subtle rocking of the boat lulled me to sleep. Granted I have not endured choppy seas, but I could almost say I enjoyed my slumber aboard the ship rather than the simple firm bed at home.

When I crawled out of my bed this morning I was greeted by the wonderful comfort of feeling great. "Seeing the lines at breakfast is a good sign," Geoff stated so truthfully. Many students were feeling relatively good, yet the common breakfast topic consisted of all things surrounding sea sickness. My table was all lucky enough to be feeling fantastic, and some, including myself, went up for some seconds. The day showed much promise as the Drake Passage was diagnosed with calm seas. We will continue to live each moment in corporation with the sea. I find the best cure is my trusty Bonine, but more importantly the wind in your face and the spray of the sea. At first glance of the brilliant blue ocean it is hard to feel sick when there is so much to appreciate.

- Alex Gustafson, Participant

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Today is our first full day at sea. So far, the water has been relatively calm, what would be a "Drake Lake" according to the human Drake-O-Meter. The time spent in Ushuaia was amazing. We heard great lectures from Jim and Remy as well as from Fred and Ollie. I found Jim's lecture on journaling to be of great help in writing my travel journal. The first hike of the expedition was up a local mountain that provides water for the entire city. The view from the top was breath taking and awe inspiring. The second hike through a bog to Emerald Lagoon was even better! We marched through mud and water to reach a beautiful lagoon carved by receding glaciers nearly 10000 years ago! The entire adventure was amazing, I could have spent five years there and not have seen everything.

All the time spent in Ushuaia made boarding the ship, not boat, even more amazing (boats can go on ships but ships cannot go on boats). On board the M/V Ushuaia has been great. We had the abandon ship drill as well as an introduction to the crew. My roommate got to bed early. The slight rocking of the ship was a perfect way to fall asleep. Today, many more people are sea sick. I have been lucky so far. My sister on the other hand has not been as lucky and was looking a little pale. For the workshops today, I went to art and made a penguin and walrus out of wire. I have seen albatross and penguins so far but they were too far away to get a good picture. I am very excited to welcome in the new year in the Drake Passage! The expedition so far has eye opening and there is much more to come!

- Chris DiCesare, Participant

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This morning I woke up 7:29 on the dot, and right away I heard Geoff’s voice on the loud speaker. As I was laying down waiting to use the bathroom, I realized we were on the Drake Passage and it was shaking a little bit. The Drake meter was right. It was going to be Lake Drake which meant it was moving a little bit, yet to me it was a lot, and I felt my stomach going up and down. I talked to Olle once again and he told me to go outside to feel the movement of the ocean and to see the horizon. I listened and did as he said. I felt good seeing the blue water surrounding me and the nauseous feeling went away. The Drake Passage was really getting to me when the ship was moving side to side as if it was going to tilt one way. Later we went to the lounge and we realized it was one of the student's birthday and wow! It's New Years Eve already. Besides all of that I am feeling well, and as we pass this Drake Passage I will be 100 % ready to be in Antarctica. To those who read this I' am wishing you a Happy New Year! Especially to my Dad and Mom and sisters. Also to my best of friends, I love you all.

- Estefani Chimbo, Participant

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Well here we are on our first day crossing the Drake Passage. There are two ways of classifying the Drake Passage; the Drake Shake or the Drake Lake and I think that we can all distinguish between the two. Today we woke up with the Drake Lake. I am happy, but yet a little disappointed that it’s not slightly rougher haha! Yesterday was a great day in the city of Ushuaia. We got to tour the town and do a little shopping. I ate some delicious soft ice cream; a twist cone to be exact! My favorite. We got to see our first penguin yesterday as well. Setting sail was absolutely amazing. The sun was shining the wind was on my face and we set off out the Beagle Channel and towards the Drake Passage. Today will be a day of lectures and workshops until we get somewhere to do shore landings, which won't be for about 2 days. I woke up around 6:00 a.m. this morning for a great yoga session, but for some reason I was the only one today...hmmmm...! Today is my little brother’s 16th birthday. Happy Birthday Trent! I hope it is a great one. Have fun! This has been an adventure already and it has hardly begun. Argentina was absolutely amazing and I will be back to Ushuaia someday soon. Antarctica here I come!

- Jenna Gall, Participant

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I can't think of a better way to end my time in Ushuaia than by joining the 'Emerald Lake swim team'. After a long hike, a few of us couldn't pass up the opportunity to take a dip in the frigid green waters (we also had our cold Canadian reputation to uphold). We boarded the ship yesterday and cast off the lines in semi-dramatic fashion, since some of us got rocked by standing right next to the horn as it sounded our departure. Some of us had a nice tour of the bridge courtesy of Fred and the Captain, and we're making good speed to Elephant Island. The bridge is very impressive, boasting many GPS units everywhere, and a good old fashioned compass. Sailing to the end of the world is an awesome way to kick off the New Year! With a beginning like this, it promises to be a good one. We're currently experiencing a 'Drake lake', since we're only getting little pathetic swells in the Drake Passage. World's most turbulent waters? That has yet to be proven.

- JP Renaud, Participant

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Hi everyone around the world, especially to Portugal!!

Fortunately I did not get seasick today on the ship, although I had to wake up so early this morning with the rocking of the ship, but I`m fine. The movement is similar that we have in Azores so, no problem until this moment...so I feel like I am home.

I really like all the presentations and lectures especially the one presented by Fred when he talked about Portugal...I’m really proud that my country has been important for the world development. I did the photography workshop and the music workshop which I really liked. I hope to do the other workshops during the expedition and I also have a few friends. I have taught some words in Portuguese to them. I have not bought my gifts yet but I didn't forget that I need to buy a lot of penguins...

I`m taking a lot of photos to remember this for the rest all my life, an adventure that is teaching me a lot of different things every day! And Lee`s help can maybe make me take better photos.

I`ll continue tell my experience, see you later... Happy new year! Bonne annee!

- Viviana Oliveira, Participant

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So far so good on the dreaded seasickness-inducing Drake Passage...only a few of the passengers are looking green. It's relatively calm sailing today on "Drake Lake". There's even a line-up for breakfast at the dining room!

The excitement yesterday amongst the participants was palpable as we embarked the Ushuaia. One normally laconic student exclaimed "It's like sinking the winning basket in the last two seconds of the basketball game!".

Remy Rodden - Educator

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I first need to make a brief apology to everyone who is expecting to get postcards from me before I return home. The postcards have been purchased, but my time in Ushuaia yesterday left me no time to sit and write the cards, yet alone find somewhere to send them!We might get the chance to sent postcards from Antarctica, and if that’s the case, you will be receiving Ushuaia postcards sent from Antarctica in a few months!Now, onto the actual trip…

LAST DAY OF 2009!!!Going to bed last night was very peaceful.The slow rocking of the boat lulled me to sleep.It almost felt like a water bed.My one complaint happened in the middle of the night when I randomly woke up and sat up a little too quickly, only to smash my head on the top bunk.I have now learned the art of rolling into, and out of bed.

This morning was an adventure for me.Bed felt great, but standing up and walking around made me realize my sea legs aren’t quite in full function yet.I decided to sit and write in my journal, but I soon discovered that adjusting to a rocking boat and looking down at my journal didn’t make the best combination.I am still hanging on to my goal of not using sea sick meds, though breakfast wasn’t in my schedule this morning.

One great discovery I made was that when feelings of an uneasy stomach start, the fastest cure is going outside.It has been a beautiful morning, and looking out at the horizon with the sun shining down onto the bow with the crisp ocean wind blowing against my face is definitely nature’s cure.

We haven’t even made it to Antarctica and I have already learned so much and been so inspired by others and by nature.My one concern is that I won’t get all my thoughts and experiences down into my journal before the end of the trip.Down time is very hard to come by, and this is the first off-hour we have had to ourselves so far on the trip!

We just had a presentation on birds, and coincidently birds are the animals we are seeing the most of on the Drake Passage.The water is very calm, and it is still very much Drake Lake, so actually we aren’t seeing as many birds as we would see on a windy day.The birds just sit and wait for windy days so they use the least amount of energy possible. They don’t flap their wings, they simply glide and soar through the skies, propelled by the wind. The bird I am hoping to see the most is the Wandering Albatross, with a wingspan of 3½ meters (about 11 feet)!

Looking out over the bridge and seeing nothing for miles and miles is a very humbling experience. The ocean spanning for miles on end, with only our ship and a few birds in sight, puts a lot of things in perspective.Our ship is keeping up good speed, and if things go as planned, we should be approaching Elephant Island later tomorrow afternoon!

It still hasn’t hit me that today is the last day of 2009, and I’ll be spending New Year’s Eve on the Drake Passage, and New Year’s Day 2010 on an island off the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula!

- Sarah Hovey, Participant

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So today I woke up with a sense of reality. Seasickness hit me harder than I expected, but it's all part of the journey and with a lot of sleep I am feeling much better.The last few days have been great and I am expecting many more.Yesterday, on the bus going to the ship I saw a saying painted on the wall that said, "Ushuaia the end of the world and the beginning of everything."I believe that this explains my whole journey here.We have traveled from all over the world to begin our lives as leaders, speakers and environmental activists.There are definitely a lot of "firsts" to me.Yesterday, Fred Roots gave a presentation on Shackleton and his journey getting to and back from where we are going.Throughout his whole journey he worked to keep his men safe above all else.In a way we are doing the same thing, but instead of protecting men we are working together to protect the world around us.

On a lighter note I am having so much fun! The cabin that I'm staying on is great.My window looks right out onto the bow of the ship so I can see everything in front of us.I have taken so many great pictures especially on the hikes up to the glacier and to Esmeralda Lagoon.I even got stuck in a bog during our hike which was really funny!I am looking forward to getting out of the Drake and into Antarctica where our real expedition begins.Of course I can't wait to see penguins and icebergs!There have already been a few penguins spotted in the water but I didn't get to see them yet.So far today there have been presentations on seabirds and Antarctic Ice.I have seen black and brown albatross so far.I haven't eaten yet today because of the seasickness but the food is great as well.Actually, we are getting ready to have a snack now.The days are going by so fast and will probably only get faster as the expedition continues.There are so many great people here and so much to learn.I can't wait to get back and tell everyone all about my adventure.From flying long flights, to presentations, to eating, to shopping and to getting seasick this is the adventure of a lifetime and I am so excited to be here

- Tara Haley, Participant

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This will be my second entry so far this expedition and things are starting to get real around here. Waking up this morning to the heavy swaying of the boat really set the tone for the day so far. It is about 3:45 pm now and the rocking has subsided a bit, as we are experiencing what is more like "Drake Lake". It is almost nerve-wracking to believe the turbulence could be any more intense at times! But apparently the seas have been rather calm and that even being able to stand up right is a sign of temperate waters. I really hope that, for at least a little bit of time, the waves behave more in action so we can experience the intense quakes the Drake Passage is famous for. But if it never happens, I won't complain.

On the ship, we had a lot of activities as well as free time planned for the day (it's been a good balance of both). I was lucky enough not to get the least bit sea sick (x fingers!) and much of the free time was had relaxing in the front room with all the other kids and trying not to let the ship rock us to sleep. The lectures today were also really entertaining, as Santiago first held a talk about the Antarctic bird species native to this area and added a lot of funny commentary to bring their personalities and qualities to life. Following was a time slot of many different creative projects we could choose from, options were: learning about photography, map reading, song writing, journal entering, or arts and crafts with wire sculptures (I chose to do the wire sculptures). It was a lot of fun, as I've never done anything like that before, and I got to make a snow flake and a pair of Ray Ban inspired sunglasses. We just got out of a lecture by Olle called "Ice is Nice" where we got to learn about the behavior and anatomy of the ice in Antarctica, and I learned a lot. For instance, it is believed that under the layers of ice (some parts as much as 5 kilometers deep) are land mountains and under ice water ways like rivers and lakes, which are not frozen. The lakes and rivers may contain some kind of unique bacterial life that has yet to be discovered, and their existence is believed to be because of the pressure from the ice above and the heat of Earth's deeper layers, allowing them to stay in liquid form. "Isn't that amazing!" .. ha-ha, a quote heard a lot during Olle's presentations.

Lunch was also really good today although less than half of us actually showed up because of sea sickness, but I'm sure they just need time to get used to the ship's constant moving. I was really excited because there was grilled salmon and then whip cream and strawberries for lunch, SO good! Also today, the newspaper known as the Daily Icecap was announced, where it's production is student organized and student run and all articles submitted can be written by students and staff. My roommate is one of the coordinators and she says that we can submit any kind of creative piece having to do with the expedition and that we could choose whether or not to submit it anonymously. I am thinking of drawing a picture or just writing a review of the trip so far; I'm sure everyone will be updated here on how that goes!

I can hardly believe it is the last day of 2009, and that I've spent the last week of the year in the most foreign of places of all my travels. I am so appreciative that my new friends and I got to walk around areas of Ushuaia and that we are now embarking on this life-changing journey in the Antarctic. I head into the new year carrying foremost memories of the sunny warm weather and beautiful architecture/people of Ushuaia as well as the views of the captivating waters of the Beagle Channel and the wide oceans of the passage. Tonight for New Year's is going to be so much fun, I don't quite know what is planned for us yet, but it is sure to be unforgettable. What I picture is all of us bustling together on the bow of the ship screaming the last ten seconds of 2009 followed by a lot of hugging and maybe crying together as it should be a most incredible moment.

I will try to write tomorrow, and maybe get a little more organized and less scatterbrained with these entries!

- Victoria Hoffman, Participant

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Geoff's wake-up call a few minutes ago sounded like something very close to: "GOOD MORNING, Students on Ice. The Drake-O-Meter did not lie yesterday and we are enjoying great conditions here on the Drake Lake." Lake? Not at all, in my opinion.

I woke up at 2:50 am today, and it was rolling and jumping and LIGHT.I'm feeling well, so don't worry Mom.Actually, I haven't seen a sick person yet.But the waves are definitely disorienting and very annoying in their persistent sways.

Anyway, off to breakfast in ten minutes so bye.

- Aleksandra Makowska, Participant

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Today was another great day on the M/V Ushuaia. We woke up at 7:30 and immediately plunged right into what was scheduled for us. First, we had a lecture/presentation by Santiago, an ornithologist (fancy name for someone who studies birds) who explained to us how bird species are diminishing due to excessive fishing, and so on and so forth. We learnt that there are a lot of bird species, but the ones we saw today included Wandering Albatrosses and many other species that I don't really know.

We then went into workshops which included art, music, photography, mapping, and bird watching. I went to art and plan to sample each one to learn a bit of everything. Afterwards, we had a presentation by Fred about geology which was very interesting. Ever since then we have been working on a presentation for our New Year's celebration. My pod, The Podguins, sang a song with modified lyrics to fit our trip. We just finished our celebration and it was a blast. There was apple, mango, and orange juice to choose from in fancy champagne glasses and we all had a toast. We danced on the highest deck on the ship to music by some of the expedition staff.We've spent the whole day on the ship so we're looking forward to taking a zodiac cruise around Elephant Island, where Shackleton and his men set up shelter after their ship sunk. I really can't wait to see penguins, but some people saw whales today.I can't believe I missed out but I'm sure there will be many more to come. I've learnt so much about climate change and I'm sure there will be a lot more to learn.Missing everyone at home...

- Bilaal Rajan, Participant

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"I am now part of a higher race of mortals who have seen the albatross"

This quote is now about me! I’m very happy about that. Even though I spent most of the day sleeping because I got seasick, I have seen the mighty wandering albatross. If anyone ever told you they were big, he was lying. They're huge! The rest of the albatross species we had seen look tiny near them. It was really great to see them. We have seen around here a couple of other sea birds like cape petrels, black browed albatross and blue eyed shag.

Seasickness made this day really hard and a lot of throwing up, skipping meals etc. Well, I really wasn't the only one seasick. Lots of people around here were seasick and we had all slept during the day in the lounge. Long and sick day, but still was very fun!

- Iddo Epstein, Participant

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We have said goodbye to Hotel Del Glacier and are on our way! Before getting too far into this entry I would like to say hi and I love you to all of my friends and family who are supporting me. With that I am having a phenomenal time! The scenery is breathtaking and the Karma is good! Our first day at sea was amazing. We have seen countless sea birds including our first penguins! Today we will cross the 60 degrees south line and then the Antarctic convergence. The ship is the M/V Ushuaia and will make the perfect home away from home for the next two weeks. We are on constant watch for penguins and whales and with some of that good Karma Geoff keeps talking about, we will get them along with smooth sailing. Thanks to all of you for supporting us on the journey of a lifetime! I shall report back with fantastic tales from the bottom of the world. Happy New Years to all!!!!

- Hannah Jacobs, Participant

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Yesterday was our last day in Ushuaia; it was such a beautiful place, but I could not wait to get on the ship. We spent our morning at our hotel and then we got to shop around the city for a little after lunch. The shops in Ushuaia were so close together that it was easy to miss a couple, but the main street did have a couple interesting gift shops. I also took advantage of the chocolate store because I was not sure when I would have a chance to eat chocolate again. We boarded our ship later in the afternoon and it was really incredible. My room is kind of small with bunk beds and we share the bathroom with our neighbors, but it is really neat. I can't believe that so many little rooms are situated on this ship. Strangely enough, I didn't even feel like I was on a ship yet. We went over some safety procedures and got a lot of time to explore the ship. You can go out on the deck whenever you want and we have a cool lounge area where you can lay down and hang out. I could tell that this was going to be a fun place to stay.

Today was less pleasant when I woke up. We had definitely made it into the Drake Passage and it wasn't even a bad day, but everyone seemed to be getting seasick. I still feel fine; the whole boat rocking makes you really drowsy though and gives you a headache. Even writing this blog is making me a little uneasy. Most of today was dedicated to relaxing and enjoying the Drake Passage. We had one lecture on seabirds already which was really informative, and we're having two more lectures later. I think a lot of people are just trying to stay awake today so it is really laid back. I tried going outside and looking for penguins but that didn't give me the results I wanted. I got to go, our next lecture is going to start soon.

- Jess Dancer, Participant

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Today we are crossing the Drake Passage! It's relatively calm.I was beginning to get a bit seasick at breakfast, but I took a little stroll outside and that seemed to be the cure. So as long as I continue to do that throughout the day, I should be fine. Yesterday when we set off from Ushuaia, it was a beautiful day.We saw a few penguins close to shore bobbing in the water; everybody seemed to get really excited about that, but I'm sure it won't compare to seeing them by the hundreds or even by the thousands.

We spent the past couple of days in Ushuaia and had tons of different workshops teaching us about what we will see in days to come. We also had plenty of time to get to know everybody. I've made tons of friends already, but pretty much everybody is really cool. In Ushuaia, we went for two hikes. The first hike was on the second day; we hiked up to the glacier behind the hotel. That was the weirdest day ever, forwhen it came to the weather, it was really sunny, then all of a sudden it started pouring rain, thenhailing, snowing, and then sunny again! This all happened on the hike and kept going on throughout the day. We were out there for about two hours in all, but when we were at the top we had a beautiful view of the city of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel. The other kids made me laugh when they got all excited about the small patch of snow in the valley we were in. They were throwing snowballs and just having a blast. Meanwhile some of my friends and I were penguin- sliding down the snow. Fred taught us about how the valley was made by the glacier and it was pretty cool. After that, we walked back down the mountain to the hotel.

The next day, we went on another hike. Thin one was to the Laguna De Esmeralda which means the emerald lagoon. It's a lake/pond way back in the mountains. We had to cross through a large bog and everybody kept getting stuck. I personally wasn't having any problem so it was kind of funny to watch everybody else. When we got there, me and a bunch of the other kids ran in and went swimming. When I ran in, it was so cold that I couldn't breathe very well for the first couple of seconds. I would have to say that it was the second or third coldest water I have ever swam in, the first was a small glacial river pool back home in Alaska.

The third day we didn't do much, we started off by eating breakfast, and then we were taught a lesson by Fred, this man is amazing! He is eighty something years old and is jam-packed with knowledge! It turns out, he was teaching at a university giving lectures open to the public, and Albert Einstein attended it! Anyway, that is beside the point. When we got done with Fred's lecture, we checked out and went into town. We ate lunch there and then went shopping for a couple of hours. After that was the moment we had all been waiting for! We boarded the ship and I was so excited! It is so big! But because there are so many rooms aboard, my cabin is really tiny...it's like six feet wide, ten feet long, and like seven and a half feet tall. Plus I have a roommate! But aside from the fact that I have a tiny room, this trip has been absolutely amazing in every aspect!

- Kasey Walker, Participant

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I am currently feeling not so hot....I think I've managed to regurgitate everything I've consumed thus far on this trip in the past four hours. I slept through lunch and have been lying down the majority of the day today. What a way to spend New Year’s Eve huh? We just recently spotted our very first Black Albatross in the Drake Passage. To think that this type of trip would be considered Drake Lake and not Drake Quake. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't concerned for

New Years Day, when I heard from a reliable source the rocking on the boat becomes way worse as we enter the Drake Quake. I have a funny feeling brewing up in my mind and body. I wouldn't call it homesick but it's just weird that this is the first time in my last 18 years of life in which I spend New Year’s not only not with my family, but thousands of miles away from home, and that as I type I gradually continue my journey away from home. But then, I remind myself that life is a learning experience and that I won't always be close to home... even on some holidays. I am also rethinking my career track. I'm unsure about continuing to pursue a focus on pre-medical studies. These past few days I've come to realize that I very much enjoy geology and environmental studies. I wonder where this excursion will leave me (mentally that is). I also realized that I miss everyone back home and how much ofan intricate part of my life everyone is, how I've been unappreciative for the most part with what I've been granted thus far. I wish you all a happy new year and I miss you all very much. See you all soon, and infinite ox’s.

- Petra Ovalles, Participant

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Our adventures in Ushuaia have come to an end and we are now on our way to Antarctica! Reflecting on the last couple of days, on Tuesday we all went on a hike to Laguna Esmeralda. We went to Tierra del Fuego National Park to get to the Laguna.We had to hike through a bog, which was incredibly amazing! Everyone would get stuck in the mud and fall. Fortunately we were all wearing rain boots. Then, we had to hike through a forest and finally up the mountains to get to the beautiful blue Laguna. I was really tired after the long walk! Especially because the rain caught up to us and some hail. I got the hotel and took a shower, I felt so much better after! In the afternoon we saw a presentation about the wildlife in Antarctica! The wildlife there is so amazing and I can't believe I'm going to experience it and see it firsthand!

Wednesday was our last day in Ushuaia before boarding the vessel! This was the day to explore the city of Ushuaia and purchase some last items before going to Antarctica.We had some really interesting presentations in the morning about Antarctica and the drake passage. I also attended a photography workshop to improve the quality of my pictures. They were all really interesting. In the afternoon, we had dinner at a restaurant down in Ushuaia. By the way, I say down in Ushuaia because our hotel is one of the highest buildings in town, the towns sloped down. After lunch we were able to finally explore Ushuaia! It's such a beautiful small little town with lots of stores with cool stuff!

One last remark before moving on and talking about my wonderful adventures on the ship, I shall share a story. So the hotel has a laundry service and there was a sheet in my room with prices and information. Thus, everything is in pesos instead of American dollar. I thought about it and thought, I don't want to be carrying all this dirty clothes with me, so I’ll give it to laundry service. And so I did and fortunately I received it right before we left the hotel. I was going to pay and she told me 200 and something pesos. I thought, alright it will be less once she converts it into American money, so I asked her how much in American dollars, and she said 64 US dollars. 64 US dollar for laundry! And it was just 2 bags of clothes! Small bags by the way. So there I was paying this lady 64 dollars for washing my jeans, shirts, and socks. It's okay though, lesson learned.

Going back to exploring Ushuaia, in the afternoon we boarded the ship! We took some buses to the port, had one last look at Ushuaia, and boarded the ship for an adventure of a life time! We set sail at around 5 in the afternoon and said goodbye to all form of civilization. It was not just us and the beautiful continent of Antarctica! We celebrated with some snacks and orange juice and watched the land disappear. On our way to Antarctica, we had to go through the Beagle Channel, which wasn't rough at all! But this morning, we were already in the Drake Passage. The Drake passage is where things get rough! It can either be Drake Lake or Drake Quake. We were all hoping for Drake Lake so that things aren't so rough and fortunately is hasn't been so rough. Thus, people are getting sick and I haven't been feeling so well. I've been taking naps throughout the day which is nice. I am extremely excited! I cannot believe we are on our way to Antarctica! I can't describe the feeling but just imagine being on a ship on your way to Antarctica! It's such a wonderful experience! I can't wait to get there and see penguins! We have already seen a few in the water but they've been found swimming which makes it hard to see. I just want to be really close to one and hug it If I am allowed.(Smile)

Another event that I hadn't realized until now is that this is the last day of 2009!! I will be celebrating New Years in a ship on our way to Antarctica! Can it get any better? At this point in my life, I don't think so. Well I hope everyone has a great New Year’s celebration! I miss everyone back home but I'm so excited to share this experience with everyone once I get back home.

- Sandra Lobato, Participant

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If you knew nothing about the Drake Passage and were on our boat right now, you would have no idea these waters were some of the roughest in the world.On our “Drake-o-meter” the needle points to somewhere between Drake Lake and Tropical Paradise; the sun is out, the skies are blue, and the wind is merely a slight breeze.Therefore, we are delighted sailors, journaling on the spacious top deck - an area which we dubbed “dance-party worthy” as we ring in the New Year.The easy ride has been good for adjusting our legs, but the conditions as Geoff puts it “are a rip-off.”I guess in some ways he is right, the fifty foot waves and endless seasickness would’ve made epic stories for home.However, we already have many folks in the Horizontal Club, and I would rather enjoy being friends with my Dramamine than a barf bag. So, Drake Passage if you are listening, please save the fun and games for a later time.

- Sarah Savoie, Participant

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Today is December 31st.New Years is tomorrow. While on the ship some are extremely excited, others are a little seasick. We, just a few minutes ago, saw a Black-Browed Albatross on the stern of the ship. There have been more workshops today, of which I attended Art. We made wire sculptures. Some made penguins, including me; there was a killer whale, a boot, and other things. We learned so much about ice in Olle’s ice presentation. Soon we will be going to Fred's presentation.

Love you Mom and Dad!

- Taylor Greene, Participant

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The past three days in Ushuaia have been filled with good conversations and amazing vistas to match them. One of the defining moments that in retrospect frames my experience well, was a talk by Fred Roots. Fred is a man with an amazing past but an equally powerful presence. His posture seems relaxed but braced for forward movement. Today just before boarding the Ushuaia I was sitting on a park bench trying to sketch Mount Olivie (Meaning Spearhead in Yamana). I saw Fred walking. I don't think he noticed me there but he caught my attention. He had stopped to gaze at two gulls. They nestled each other and it looked as though it was a mother and a juvenile. He seemed so content observing these birds. I started to appreciate their beauty. Their slender grey necks, their vibrant red/orange beaks and feet. The scene reminded me of his evening talk the night before. Lightly gripping the wooden podium in the conference room, his voice crackled like a fire imbued with wisdom. Fred declared that watching an albatross can teach you more than any textbook, and reaches where religion fades. I felt instantly connected with this notion. Within it there is an assumption that watching is very different than a simple sighting. To have seen an albatross one only needs eyes, but to watch one (as Fred implied) one must engage their heart and mind. This goes along with the idea that there are many forms of intelligence that exist outside degrees, and test scores. An Amazonian tribesman's knowledge of the forest is just as valid as a conservationist if not more so. Fred raised a similar point in his telling of Magellan’s demise. Despite all his triumphs over nature his hubris due to technology lead to a spear to his chest.

Another kind of realization I came to was not to be overwhelmed by the immensity or complicated nature of things. In childhood one can easily see the world in a polarized way, but at a certain point the grey area of life expands exponentially upon realizing how small and transient we are. One time this came up in my mind was talking to Olle at the dinner table. As we ate Gnocchi with red sauce and later brownies with ice cream, Olle shared about his home in Southern Sweden in flat farmland, orderly but cozy and fertile. Somewhere the conversation turned to Latin American Politics- the effects of Neoliberalism / United States Imperialism- the spread of globalization- the issues with foreign aid- climate change and national responsibility- all overwhelming problems facing our world today deep in complexity with few answers or conclusions. However, what emerged was that to be apathetic and overwhelmed by these ideas is the last thing to do. It is the easiest way out. One must always struggle and reevaluate how to place themselves on the right side of things. This could mean often finding oneself opposite of the dominant world powers. Olle caught my eye and assured me, out of the many things in the world, what Geoff does and SOI was on the right side. There was no doubt in those blue eyes and rosy cheeks; I knew that the Silver Fox (as some call him) was right.

This conversation runs parallel to another aspect of Fred's talk that one evening. To know that vast intricacies exist beyond the scope of what our mind would like to accept it is easy to see the world as "mind boggling." He urged us not to be boggled or frozen by the largeness of the world. To learn from the ornate web of connections that make up our universe is to embrace it as something on a greater scale. Obviously it is something easier written than done- but I have a feeling that Fred's understanding of this is why he has so much energy at such an advanced age, or why he was able to complete the longest dog sled run in history, win polar medals from multiple countries, and to speak to audiences with such figures as Albert Einstein in the crowd.

As I drift off to sleep and the rocking of Ushuaia, drifting down the Beagle Channel towards the White Continent I will think of the first penguin and albatross I watched today and what I learned from them.

- Trevor Wallace, Participant

Photo by Lee Narraway

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4:00pm Update:

Good afternoon! We just uploaded a new batch of photos and journals from yesterday's final day in Ushuaia and first night on board the ship.

Please visit yesterday's Expedition Update page to view them all!

Our Expedition Leader, Geoff Green, reports that are all are well and healthy on board, some a little greener than others, but all are up and around the ship enjoying the day. They continue to have fair weather and are making good progress across the Drake. "Land ho" should be tomorrow at approximately 3:00 p.m.

Happy New Year to you all from our intrepid Expeditioners on board the ship and from all of us here at Students on Ice H.Q.

There is a lot of adventure ahead!

Stay tuned for further updates!

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12:00pm Update:

Our team of students and staff are all well on board the ship this morning. They are currently approximately 1/3 of the way across the Drake Passage - that famous 800 km passage of water that separates the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula!

We had a satellite telephone call from Geoff Green, our Expedition Leader, a short while ago who reported that the seas are being very kind to them today. Geoff reported that a few students are experiencing minor sea sickness, but that they had a 100% turn-out at breakfast and 100% at the morning presentations and workshops. Our Expedition Doctor is doing the rounds, administering care when necessary. It is a beautiful day at sea. Skies are blue, winds are calm and our students are busy inside the ship and out on deck participating in various activities.

Currently, Santiago Imberti - our expedition ornithologist - is leading a seabird presentation in the ship's lounge – which is appropriate considering the number of seabird species currently circling and following the ship. They have sighted dozens of Giant Petrels, Black-browed Albatross, Cape Petrels and Giant Petrels. These birds are habitual ship followers and glide beautifully and majestically through the air, barely needing to flap their wings, as they buzz the ship out of curiosity – not to mention the fact that the ship’s big propeller churns up delicious sea creatures close to the surface of the water for the birds to eat!

Students are also on the Bridge or out on deck scoping for whales and dolphins, which are abundant in these waters.

At this speed and course, the team will reach Elephant Island for its first Antarctic zodiac cruise sometime tomorrow afternoon!

In the meantime, the students are enjoying their first full day at sea! And most probably haven’t realized that they have a Drake Passage New Years Eve Celebration to attend this evening!

Stay Tuned for Updates!


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